Q-kerb ramps Safety Wheel Chocks，Portable Wooden Wheel Block Car Wheel Chocks Large Vehicle Wedges Blocks for Car Park, Auto Repair Shop(Size:40 * 30 * 20CM)

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A divisible load is a load that can be broken down into multiple smaller parts, such as a bundle of pipes or bars.

This is one of the few times when US ing a hammer on a chisel is ap-propriate. Hold the chisel along the forward vertical edge of the recess you are making, then tap it with a leather or wood mallet (not a metal hammer). Because you are cutting across the grain, the chisel will not penetrate very deeply. The shank slot is easier insofar as its edges are parallel, more difficult in-sofar as there’s a longer slope to cut and smooth, But the procedure is the same as with the fluke recess. Drill a control hole; a 5/8″ bit produces a 5/8″ slot (which is good for anchors up to about 20 pounds.) Then proceed as before, carefully and patiently shaving down the sloped slot. The example shown was made about 30 years ago of Honduras mahogany. For reasons of maintenance, oiled teak is preferable. Varnished wood simply wasn’t made for cradling heavy chunks of metal.The STF is the working tension in the strap created when the lashing is ratcheted down over the load. It’s only used to calculate the number of lashings needed in frictional lashing. look for any signs of damage on the straps before using them - you must replace any straps that are significantly damaged Design the larger piece so that about 3″ of the flukes and all of the shank are contained in a resting posi-tion. Design the crown rest with at least an inch of width outside either edge of the crown. They make a great addition to your toolbox for added safety measures when working on your vehicle, but they should also be used with other precautions in place. Provided you have time inthe lift dropping the rudder out is fine. Providied the cradle is big enough to provide support as you take strain off the slings then you will be best putting the boat into this first so that she is fully settled with the weight on the keel before putting props in all round. There is a real risk of dammage if you put a prop in before all the load is off the hoist of the prop causing excessive pressurein a single spot. As said elsewhere you may well find that the boat pivots as the weight comes off. You will also need to ensure that the boat stays upright. If you havn't done this before please get somebody who has done a few to help. Once settled in the cradle a good number of props tied together as shown on the Saddler should be fine. Make sure that the props are positioned on strong areas of the hull. If you are determined to leave the mast up strip off all you can, frap rigging hard to prevent vibration and even consider wrapping a warm round and round the mast as a 'vortex shredder'. I personnally thing the right size cradle is the thing to get and take away a lot of trouble and worry.

Step 1: Cut the pieces of lumber to the desired length – generally around 4-6 inches long. Both pieces should be cut to the same size. Cut out the wood; then lay the an-chor on the two pieces and, lining up on the centerline, mark the positions of the crown, fluke, and shank recesses. You must secure any divisible load that is higher than the headboard. You can use additional lashings to stop the load moving forward when the vehicle brakes. Indivisible loads They’re an effective load securing method when used correctly, but they can be damaged easily. Keeping straps in good condition You can achieve positive fit with cylindrical loads (such as paper reels) when the extremity of either one reel or two reels side by side is within 8cm of the side of the vehicle or trailer.If you decide to do the calculation yourself, you must use a coefficient of friction of 0.2 in the calculation unless: I 'think' your cradle will be alright, if used in conjunction with wooden props. You can always strap the hull to the cradle as well to stiffen it up a bit, but not essential. When securing a load in the middle of the load bed, or a load that is not very tall, you should either:

Loop (choke) lashing is particularly effective when these loads are carried at an angle over the headboard of a vehicle or trailer. You must use a minimum of 2 loop (choke) lashings for this type of load unless each item is individually clamped to the headboard. Draw a centerline on the piece of wood and transfer the whole shape by stationing your cutout or template on the centerline. Then draw around the template, and flip the template over to get the other, exactly match-ing side.

direct - where one end of the lashing is attached to the load and the other end is attached to the vehicle or trailer If the end is too small, do not use it on your tire and discard it. You will need a larger piece for this step.

The LC is the maximum force the lashing can safely withstand without damage when pulled in a straight line. It’s only used to calculate the number of lashings needed in direct lashing. Standard tension force (STF) The friction between most loads and the standard load beds of most vehicles and trailers is generally low. The weight of a load alone cannot be relied on to keep it in place once the vehicle is moving, even if the load is very heavy and cannot be moved by hand when the vehicle is stationary. increase the height of the load (for example, by placing empty pallets or other suitable item on top of it)Gather the necessary supplies: two pieces of 2×4 lumber, metal corner braces, and screws. You’ll also need a saw, drill, wrench, and screwdriver. First of all, you’ll need a high quality chisel with a 1/2″ blade. The “secret” of good woodworking is to make sure your edged tools are really sharp. Take the time to dress your new or old tool on a good Arkansas stone using light oil as a lubricant. Take great care to keep the angle con-stant as you stroke the stone; other-wise you’ll be rounding the edge rather than sharpening it. When you can shave a hair from your arm, you’ve got the edge sharp enough.